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The perfect accessory for your punk rock lifestyle. I dreamed up these gloves at a concert where the lead singer was wearing regular striped arm-warmers in grey and black. I thought, How cool! But I can do better…

They are knit straight with shaping on both sides for the wrist, then finished with an applied i-cord for either side of the “corset” with extra spaces for the lacing holes. Rock on friends.


Level: Intermediate to Advanced

Size: Fits most adults

Length: 11 inches
Width (at ends): 6 inches
Width (at middle): 4 inches

Yarns:

MC = Caron Simply Soft [100% acrylic; worsted weight 4 ply; 315 yd per 170g skein]
CC = Red Heart Soft Yarn [100% acrylic; worsted weight; 4 ply; 256 yds per 140g per skein]; 1 skein each color
[MC] Black
[CC] Red

Needles:

1 set US #8/ 5 mm straight needles
1 set US #8/ 5 mm double-point needles
Tapestry needle

Gauge: 18 sts/24 rows = 4 inches St st


Pattern Notes:

The sizing for this pattern allows for 1-2 inches of space where the laces go over bare skin (that and it stretches nicely to form fit your arm). So when the measurement above says 6 inches, it will fit a hand that is 8 or 9 inches around the knuckles.

St st stripes will always be four rows to a color.

The applied i-cord is knit with spaces in order to lace up the gloves. There are no spaces in the cord where the thumbs go. The knitted portions of the border i-cord bands that don’t use picked up stitches form arches which will be your lacing holes.

Read this before you begin:
ssk = slip slip knit.
k2tog = knit two together.
sl = slip stitch. psso = pass slipped stitch over.
knit one from body = knit the next stitch on the needle holding picked up stitches.
sldpn = Slide stitches to opposite end of dpn, RS facing, don’t turn to face WS. (Makes i-cord)
MC = main color (black), CC = contrasting color (red)


Body Begin:

CO 26 st in MC.
Row 1 [RS]: *[k1, p1] repeat to end.
Row 2 [WS]: *[p1, k1] repeat to end. [Seed stitch]
Repeat rows 1 and 2 four more times [Six rows of seed stitch total]
Row 7[RS]: Change color to CC. k to end of row.
Row 8[WS]: p to end of row.
Continue to p every WS row.
Row 9: k
Row 11: Change color to MC. k to end of row.
Row 13: k

Body Decreases:

Row 1[RS]: Change color to CC. k1, ssk, k 20 st, k2tog, k1.
Row 2[WS]: p
Continue to p every WS row.
Row 3: k
Row 5: Change color to MC. k1, ssk, k 18 st, k2tog, k1.
Row 7: k
Row 9: Change color to CC. k1, ssk, k 16 st, k2tog, k1.
Row 11: k
Row 13: Change color to MC. k1, ssk, k 14 st, k2tog, k1.
Row 15: k

Body Middle:

Row 1[RS]: Change color to CC. k to end of row.
Row 2[WS]: p
Continue to p every WS row.
Row 3: k
Row 5: Change color to MC. k to end of row.
Row 7: k
Repeat rows 1-8 one more time [4 stripes over 16 rows knit]

Body Increases:

Row 1[RS]: Change color to CC. k1, kfb, k 14 st, kfb, k1.
Row 2[WS]: p
Continue to p every WS row.
Row 3: k
Row 5: Change color to MC. k1, kfb, k 16 st, kfb, k1.
Row 7: k
Row 9: Change color to CC. k1, kfb, k 18 st, kfb, k1.
Row 11: k
Row 13: Change color to MC. k1, kfb, k 20 st, kfb, k1.
Row 15: k

Body Finish:

Row 1[RS]: Change color to CC. k to end of row.
Row 2[WS]: p to end of row.
Continue to p every WS row.
Row 3: k
Row 5: Change color to MC. k
Row 6 [WS]: *[k1, p1] repeat to end.
Row 7 [RS]: *[p1, k1] repeat to end. [Seed stitch]
Repeat rows 6 and 7 four more times [Six rows of seed stitch total]
BO.

Finishing (Body):

Cut yarns leaving at least 6 inch tail. Thread MC yarn onto tapestry needle and sew in tail on WS.


Applied I-Cord Trim [Left Border]:

(See chart for border placement)
With WS facing, begin to pick up stitches. You will begin at row 1 on chart.
Follow chart pattern from bottom to top.
pu 1, skip one st, *[pu 3 st, skip one st], repeat from * to thumb opening [34 stitches on needle]
pu 16 st, skip one st
*[pu 3 st, skip one st], repeat from * to last 2 st, pu 2. [58 stitches on needle]
Turn so RS is facing

CO 2 st on dpn.
Row 1: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 2: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 3: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Row 4: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Row 5: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 6: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 7: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 8: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn
Row 9: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Repeat rows 5-9, one more time [2 times total, 8 stitches on needle]

Begin Thumb portion:
Row 1: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Slide stitches to opposite end of dpn.
Repeat Row 1, 15 more times [16 rows total]

To the end:
Row 1: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Row 2: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Row 3: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 4: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 5: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 6: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn
Row 7: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Repeat rows 3-7 ten more times [11 times total]
Last stitch on body: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso.
BO stitches.
Cut yarn and sew in tail.


Applied I-Cord Trim [Right Border]:

(See chart for border placement)
With WS facing, begin to pick up stitches. You will begin at row 73 on chart.
Follow chart pattern from top to bottom.
pu 2, skip one st, *[pu 3 st, skip one st], repeat from * two times to thumb opening [8 stitches on needle]
pu 16 st, skip one st
*[pu 3 st, skip one st], repeat from * to last st, pu 1. [58 stitches on needle]
Turn so RS is facing

CO 2 st on dpn.
Row 1: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 2: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Row 3: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Row 4: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 5: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 6: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 7: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn
Row 8: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Repeat rows 4-8 ten more times [total of 11 times]

Begin Thumb portion:
Row 1: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Slide stitches to opposite end of dpn.
Repeat Row 1, 15 more times [16 rows total]

To the end:
Row 1: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Row 2: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Row 3: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 4: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 5: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 6: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn
Row 7: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Repeat rows 3-7 one more time
Row 13: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 14: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
BO stitches.
Cut yarn and sew in tail.

Finishing (Laces):

Measure 1 piece of MC yarn 36 inches long (3 feet). Thread onto seaming needle and thread into opening you have made in the applied i-cord border. Alternate like you’re lacing shoe laces (As shown in pictures).


Pattern (First Half)



Pattern (Second Half)


Video Instructions! (Added June 22, 2008)

Part 1 – Picking up stitches along the glove edge (follow the chart and watch where the spaces go)

Part 2 – Picking Up stitches for the thumb portion

Part 3 – Knitting on the applied i-cord with spaces for lacing holes.

Hope these videos help!

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I came up with this hat when I was still getting presents together three weeks before Christmas. It’s available in four sizes, and knits up SO quick. Plus, it’s a great stash/leftover yarn project. You put three or four strands of yarn together and knit them like they’re one bulky strand of yarn. Huge stitches, meaning fewer to knit overall.

The small one is made of four strands of varying blue yarns; the bigger one is 2 strands of black and 1 strand of grey, then 2 black and 1 red for the color band.

Level: Beginner to Intermediate

Sizes:

S [M, L, XL]

Circumference: 17 [20, 22, 24] inches
Height: 7 [8, 9, 10] inches

Yarns:

Caron Simply Soft [100% acrylic; worsted weight 4 ply; 315 yd per 170g skein];
3 or 4 strands, colors are up to you.
1 set US #10 / 5 mm double-point needles
8 [11, 12, 13] stitch markers
Tapestry needle

Gauge:

13 sts/17 rows = 4 inches ribbed

Pattern Notes:

Knitting with three or four strands can make stitches a little tough to knit. The gauge is the same with three or four strands on size 10 needles. Color possibilities are endless for this project.
PM = place marker. k2tog = knit two together. For the small hat [size S, for a four year old] in the pictures, four strands of yarn were used in four variation colors of blue. The larger hat [size L, for a 16 year old] in the pictures uses three strands of yarn, 2 black and 1 grey – then for the band of color, 2 strands of black and 1 red.


Body:

CO 46 [66, 72, 78] st with 3 or 4 strands of yarn held together.
Round 1: Join without twisting and begin to knit 1×1 rib in the round. *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Knit 1×1 rib for 5.5 [6.25, 7, 7.5] inches or about 22 [26, 28, 30] rounds. (Measurements may vary depending on personal gauge).

Body Decreases:

Round 1: Place 8 [11, 12, 13] markers. *p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, PM, repeat from *to end of round.
Round 2: Continue to knit in 1×1 rib, k2tog before every marker.
Round 3: Knit 1 round 1×1 rib. [no decreases this round]
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until 4 stitches remain.


Finishing:

Cut yarns leaving at least 6 inch tails. Thread yarn onto tapestry needle and thread into remaining stitch loops, taking stitches off needles. Pull yarn tight to close hole and tie with a knot. Thread into the inside of the hat and sew in tail.


Eat. KNIT. Run. Blog.

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What else says “pretty” and “punk” better than hot pink and skulls? This blanket is knit in five long strips, like scarves, then seamed together at the end. It’s a time-saving technique that eliminates seaming individual squares one by one.


Level: Beginner to Intermediate

Width: 5 feet
Length: 7 feet

Yarns:

Caron Simply Soft [100% acrylic; worsted weight 4ply; 315 yd per 170g skein]
[MC] Black — 6 skeins
[C1] Watermelon — 5 skeins
[C2] Limelight — 1 skein
[C3] Blue Mint — 1 skein

**[Names of colors have been recently edited to be corrected. Also, I had listed the number of skeins for each color as “1 skein each color” which is also incorrect and changed. I don’t remember exactly how many skeins and the numbers listed above may not be accurate — if you make this blanket, could you please help me out and comment with the number of skeins you used? Thanks — Jenny]**


Needles:

1 24-inch US #9 / 5.5 mm circular or straight needles
Tapestry needle

Gauge: 13 st/ 17 rows = 4 inches

Pattern Notes:

Alternate black and pink rows for every strip (see picture). Be sure to count rows carefully or the squares won’t match up when you seam them together. The skull chart below represents the entire square. Alternate colors as directed and as shown in the pictures.


Strip 1:

CO 40 st in MC
Rows 1-50: k St st.
Rows 51-100: Change color to C1. k St st.
Rows 101-150: Change color to MC. k St st.
Repeat rows 51-150 2 more times [3 times total]
BO stitches. [350 rows total in strip; 7 squares knitted]

Strip 2:

CO 40 st in C1
Rows 1-50: k St st.
Rows 51-100: Change color to MC. k St st.
Rows 101-150: Change color to C1. k St st.
Rows 151-200: Pattern square. Change color to MC. Use C2 for skull in patt.
Rows 201-250: Change color to MC. k St st.
Rows 251-300: Change color to C1. k St st.
Rows 301-350: Change color to MC. k St st.
BO stitches.

Strip 3:

CO 40 st in MC
Rows 1-50: k St st.
Rows 51-100: Change color to C1. k St st.
Rows 101-150: Pattern Square. Change color to MC. Use C3 for skull in patt.
Rows 151-200: Change color to C1. k St st.
Rows 201-250: Pattern Square. Change color to MC. Use C3 for skull in patt.
Rows 251-300: Change color to C1. k St st.
Rows 301-350: Change color to MC. k St st.
BO stitches.

Strip 4:

Repeat Strip 2

Strip 5:

Repeat Strip 1

I feel like a pioneer woman sewing this blanket together… I dunno :)

Finishing:

Block the strips well. Tie strips together at the corners of squares as a guide when seaming. Seam all strips together in the order they were knitted, or as shown in the picture. Sew in all tails.
[Optional] Sew a backing onto the blanket for extra warmth (not shown).

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[A small typo in the yolk instructions was corrected recently, so if you printed this pattern out previously, you’ll need a copy of the new version – Thanks! Jenny]

This is a snuggly sweater good for lounging around or going out. It’s knit in traditional, top-down, raglan style and it’s knit in one piece, meaning no seaming! Also, the whole sweater is knit in the round, meaning no turning your work back and forth, just row upon row of soothing stitches.


Level: Beginner to Intermediate

Sizes:

XS [S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X]
Bust: 28 [32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56] inches
Length: 22 [22.5, 23, 24, 25, 26, 26, 27] inches
Upper arm width: 11 [12, 13, 13.5, 14, 15, 16, 17] inches

Yarn:

Jo-Ann Sensations Rainbow Boucle [88% acrylic, 12% nylon; 853 yd per 312g skein]; 1 skein

Needles:

1 24-inch or 29-inch US #8 / 5 mm circular needles
1 set US #8 / 5 mm double-pointed needles
4 stitch markers
Tapestry needle

Gauge: 13 st/ 24 rows = 4 inches

Pattern Notes:

Start knitting from the collar and work your way down to the hem. When putting sleeve stitches on holders, I found pieces of waste yarn to work perfectly because you can tie them up tight and they won’t get in the way like metal or plastic holders can. PM = place maker. kfb = knit through front and back of loop (increase).


Yolk:

CO 72 [76, 80, 84, 88, 88, 92, 96] st loosely.
Round 1: *k 23 [26, 29, 30, 31, 33, 36, 39] st, PM, k 13 [12, 11, 12, 13, 11, 10, 9], PM, Repeat from * to end [Two repetitions, 4 markers]
Round 2: slip marker, kfb, *k to next marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, repeat from * to last stitch (previously last two stitches, corrected on 2-9-09) before first marker, kfb.
Round 3: k
Round 4: k
Repeat rows 2, 3, and 4: 11 [13, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21, 23] times total. 88 [104, 120, 128, 136, 152, 168, 184] increased stitches. Total stitches on needles: 160 [180, 200, 212, 224, 240, 260, 280].
Next Round: k 7 [6, 3, 3, 2, 2, 1, 3] rounds.
Next Round: k to first sleeve, remove sleeve stitches between markers and put them onto stitch holders. 35 [38, 41, 44, 47, 49, 52, 55] stitches per sleeve.
Repeat for second sleeve. Only body stitches on needles now. 90 [104, 118, 124, 130, 142, 156, 170] stitches on needles.

Body:

K for 81 [81, 84, 87, 87, 93, 96, 96] rounds, or until body reaches 16.5 [16.5, 17, 17.5, 18, 19, 20, 20] inches.

Hem:

K 1×1 rib for 18 [18, 18, 18, 21, 21, 24, 24] rounds, or until hem reaches 3 [3, 3, 3, 3.5, 3.5, 4, 4] inches.
BO stitches loosely.


Sleeves [Make 2]:

Take stitches off holder and place onto dpns.
Round 1: Beginning next to body, PM, k2tog, k to end.
Next Round: K 9 [10, 9, 8, 8, 7, 7, 7] more rounds. Repeat these 10 [11, 10, 9, 9, 8, 8, 8] rounds for 9 [9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 14, 15] times total.
Next Round: K 6 [9, 3, 9, 4, 10, 10, 3] rounds, or until sleeve reaches 16 [16.5, 17, 17.5, 18.5, 18.5, 19, 19]inches from underarm.

Sleeve Cuffs:

K 1×1 rib for 12 [12, 12, 12, 15, 15, 18, 18] rounds, or until cuff reaches 2 [2, 2, 2, 2.5, 2.5, 3, 3] inches.
BO stitches loosely.


Finishing:

Sew in all tails. Crochet a chain around neck if desired. Sew up any holes in the underarms. No seaming! It’s done!

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This hat was inspired by a friend who requested a “cutesy hat with ears.” Adding ears to a hat pretty much guarantees cuteness. I was just getting into fair isle knitting when I designed this and couldn’t resist adding that element as well. Make it for a kid, or for your own “inner child.”


Level: Intermediate

Size:

XXS, XS (Kid sizes) [S, M, L] (Adult Sizes)
Circumference: 18, 20 [22, 24, 26] inches
Height: 7.5, 7.5 [8.5, 8.5, 9.5] inches

Yarn:

Caron Simply Soft [100% acrylic; worsted weight 4ply; 315 yd per 170g skein]; 1 skein each color
[MC] Grey
[CC] White

Needles:

1 16-inch US #5 / 3.75 mm circular needle
1 set US #5 / 3.75 mm double-point needles
9, 10, [11, 12, 13] stitch markers
Tapestry needle

Gauge: 24 sts/30 rows = 4 inches

Pattern Notes:

Fair isle makes things extra warm and snuggly, but it also causes pieces to lose their stretch. What you see is what you get. Make sure you gauge your circumference accurately because there won’t be much stretch room at all. Switch to double pointed needles when stitches get too tight on the circular needles.
There will be 18, 20 [22, 24, 26] repetitions of pattern A around the hat and 5, 5 [6, 6, 7] repetitions of pattern A up the hat. For the crown, there will be 9, 10, [11, 12, 13] reps of pattern B around

MC = main color (grey), CC = contrasting color (white), PM = place marker.

Body:

CO 108, 120 [132, 144, 156] st.
Rounds 1-8: Knit 2×2 rib.
Round 9: Beg patt A. Cont for 30, 30 [36, 36, 42] rounds of patt.
Rounds 44-51: Switch to dpns. Place 9, 10 [11, 12, 13] markers before stitches shown in red in patt B. Begin patt B. K2tog before every marker except for the last row of patt. [7 dec rounds – 8 rounds total]
Rounds 52-58: Remove every other marker, leaving 5, 5 [6, 6, 7] on needles. K2tog before every marker [7 rounds]
Rounds 59: k2tog every 12 st. [1 round]
Rounds 60: k2tog for all st, until 8 st remain.

Finishing (Body):

Cut yarn leaving at least a 6 inch tail. Thread onto seaming needle. Take stitches off knitting needles, thread seaming needle into stitch loops. Pull tight to close hole. Knot yarn. Turn hat inside out to sew in tails.


Ears [Make 2] (Same for all hat sizes):

CO 10 st.
Rounds 1-6: k St st
Round 7 [RS]: SSK, knit to last two stitches, k2tog
Round 8 [WS]: p
Continue to p all WS rows.
Rounds 9 and 11: SSK, k to last two st, k2tog [4 st on needles]
Round 13: k2tog, k2tog [2 st on needles]
Round 15: kfb, kfb [4 st on needles]
Rounds 17, 19, and 21: kfb, k to last to st, kfb [10 st on needles]
Round 15: kfb, kfb [4 st on needles]
Rounds 23-28: k St st
BO all stitches.

Finishing (Ears)

Fold ear piece in half, WS facing out. Sew up sides. Turn RS out. Sew both ears onto body of hat as shown in the picture.


Pattern APattern B

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This hat was inspired by the beautiful land and seascapes of Juneau, Alaska. While spending time there as winter approached, I realized quickly that my ears were very cold in normal beanie hats; I was desperate for something thick to snuggle my ears! Thus, the Juneau hat was born. The fair isle pattern reflects the mountainous islands in the bay, or sound, with the mountain sides ending at the ocean shore. The ear flaps represent one shore, looking over waves, then across to another mountain across the bay.


Level: Intermediate to Advanced

Size: Fits most adults

Circumference: 24 inches
Height (brim to top): 8 inches
Height (ear flap tip to top): 13 inches

Yarns:

MC = Caron One Pound [100% acrylic; worsted weight; 4 ply; 453 g per skein]
CC = Caron Simply Soft [100% acrylic; worsted weight 4 ply; 315 yd per 170g skein]; 1 skein each color
[MC] Black
[CC] Denim blue

Needles:

1 16-inch US #8 / 5 mm circular needle
1 set US #8 / 5 mm double-point needles
7 stitch markers
Tapestry needle

Gauge: 22 sts/24 rows = 4 inches in pattern

Pattern Notes:

Fair isle makes things extra warm and snuggly, but it also causes pieces to lose their stretch. What you see is what you get. Make sure you gauge your circumference accurately because there won’t be much stretch room at all. Switch to double pointed needles when stitches get too tight on the circular needles.
PM = place marker. psso = pass slipped stitch over. MC = main color (black), CC = contrasting color (denim blue)


Ear Flaps (Make 2)

CO 3 st.
Row 1 [RS]: Beg patt 1. K 3.
Row 2 [WS]: p 3.
Row 3: kfb, k1, kfb in patt.
Row 4: p
Continue to p every even [WS] row
Continue in chart ending on WS row 24
Leave stitches on the needle, or place on stitch holders. Set aside.

Body

CO 35 st, place 25 st from ear flap onto circular needle, CO 35 st, place 25 st from ear flap onto circular needle. [120 st total]
Rounds 1-2: k 2 rounds in MC.
Rounds 3-5: Work 1 rep of Patt 2. [3 rounds]
Rounds 6-7: k 2 rounds in MC.
Rounds 8-31: Work 2 reps of Patt 3. [24 rounds]
Round 32: k 1 round in MC.
Round 33: Set up 7 markers for decreases. *k 17, PM, repeat from * six times, k 15, k2tog, PM.

Body Decreases:

Follow chart for Patt 4.
Rounds 1-5: *k to two stitches before marker, k2tog, repeat from * for 5 rounds.
Rounds 6-10: *k to four stitches before marker, k2tog, k2tog, repeat from * for 5 rounds.
Round 11: *k2tog before marker, repeat from * to end. [1 round]

Finishing (Body):

Cut yarns leaving at least 6 inch tails. Thread MC yarn onto tapestry needle and thread into remaining stitch lops, taking stitches off needles. Pull yarn tight to close hole and tie with a knot. Thread into the inside of the hat and sew in tail.

Applied I-Cord Trim

Pick up 25 st along one side of ear flap in CC. Place all stitches onto circular needle.
Continue and pick up 35 st along brim of the body.
Continue and pick up 25 st along side of earflap.
Repeat all for the second half of hat. [170 st picked up]

RS facing out, begin on the right side of an ear flap.

Begin I-Cord: Take out two size 8 dpns. Without breaking yarn from picked up stitches on circular needles, CO 3 st onto dpns.
*On dpns k 2, sl 1, k1 off circular needle onto dpn, psso. Slide stitches to end of dpn. Repeat from * to the next ear flap tip.

To bend I-cord around the ear flap tip: *On dpn k 2, sl 1, knit into the same stitch off circular needle from the previous rep, psso. Repeat from * four times, knitting into the same stitch at the tip of the ear flap, four times.

Repeat all for second half of hat.

BO I-Cord stitches.

Cut yarn and seam ends of I-Cord together. Sew in tail.


Finishing (Tassels):

Measure 6 strips of CC yarn 14 inches long. Thread onto seaming needle and pass through tip of ear flap (or use crochet hook to pull threads through).

Pull yarn half way through. Divide front and back strips into three sections of two strands. Braid for 6 inches. Tie ends into one big knot.

Repeat for second ear flap.

Line up braids and make sure they’re even. Trim tassels evenly.


Pattern 1

Pattern 2

Pattern 3
Pattern 4


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This is the perfect accessory for the mischief-maker in your life, even if that person is you! When wearing this cuddly face warmer on the ski slopes, no one will mistake you for someone else. Great for costumes parties or for every day use, whichever you prefer.


Level: Intermediate

Size: Fits most adults

Circumference (unstretched): 20 inches
Length (Short): 17.5 inches (shown in picture)
Length (Long): 21.5 inches

Yarns:

Caron Simply Soft [100% acrylic; worsted weight 4ply; 315 yd per 170g skein]; 1 skein each color
[MC] White
[CC] Black

Needles:

1 16-inch US #9 / 6 mm circular needle
1 set US #9 / 6 mm double-pointed needles
6 stitch markers
Tapestry needle

Gauge: 17 sts/20 rows = 4 inches in pattern


Pattern Notes:

There are two lengths for this mask. The short version, shown in the picture, ends just below the chin to be used as a casual mask. The longer version covers the entire neck to keep warm. PM = place marker. Switch to double pointed needles when stitches get too tight on the circular needles. MC = main color. CC = contrasting color.


Lower Mask:

CO 80 st in MC.
[Short length] Rounds 1-10: Knit 1×1 rib for 10 rounds
[Long Length] Rounds 1-30: Knit 1×1 rib for 30 rounds
Next Round: k 10 rounds.
Next Round: K 32 st, PM, begin row 1 of patt, PM at end of patt, k to end.
Continue patt between markers.

Eye Holes:

Row 52 of patt: K to marker, k 3 in patt, BO 6 st, k 5 in patt, BO 6 st, continue in patt to marker, k to end.
Continue to knit patt between markers. Do not carry yarn across eye hole openings; tie on new yarn to make nose bridge between eye holes.
Row 56 of patt: k to marker, k 3 in patt, CO 6 st, k 5 in patt, CO 6 st, continue in patt to marker, k to end.

Upper Mask:

Continue to end of patt.
Rounds 1-16: K in MC
Round 17: * k 13, PM, repeat from * to end [place 6 markers total]
Round 18: k2tog before every marker, k to end. [6 dec]
Round 19: k
Rounds 20-36: Repeat rounds 18 and 19, 8 times [16 rounds total]
Rounds 37-38: k2tog twice before every marker for 2 rounds [24 dec]

Finishing (Mask):

Cut yarn leaving at least 6 inch tail. Thread onto seaming needle. Thread seaming needle into remaining stitch loops and take off knitting needles. Pull tight to close hole. Knot yarn. Turn hat inside out to sew in all tails.

Ears [Make 2]:

CO 18 st.
Row 1-8: k St st
Row 9 [RS]: SSK, k to last two st, k2tog
Row 10 [WS]: p
Continue to p all WS rows.
Row 11 and 13: SSK, SSK k to last four st, k2tog, k2tog [8 st on needles]
Row 15: SSK, SSK, k2tog, k2tog [4 st on needles]
Row 17: kfb four times [8 st on needles]
Row 19 and 21: kfb, kfb, k to last to two st, kfb, kfb [16 st on needles]
Rows 23: kfb, k to last st, kfb
Rows 25-32: k St st
BO all stitches.

Finishing (Ears):

Fold ear piece in half, WS facing out. Sew up sides. Turn RS out. Sew both ears onto body of hat as shown in the picture.

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